Russians Look For Safer Route To Everest

by jakedai | March 26, 2007 at 03:39 pm | 659 views | 2 comments

All I can say is Good luck! The Russian team is headed off to Nepal to try to find a safer route up into the Western Cwm (pronounced "coom"), bypassing the famed and feared Khumbu Icefall. This would be great in some ways, as it would lessen and massive objective hazard faced by climbers attempting to ascend the "easy" route on Everest, the Southeast Ridge. And, more importantly, it would lessen the exposure to objective hazard faced by the Sherpa, including the famed Icefall Doctors, who really bear the brunt of dealing with this treacherous part of the climbing route.


Unfortunately, however, I doubt their quest will end in success. Eric Shipton pioneered the route through the icefall in 1951 (with a young climber named Edmund Hillary), seeing it as the only reasonable route from that side. Shipton had gazed upon the icefall in 1938 which climbing from the North Side of the peak, via Tibet.

In all subsequent expeditions to the Southeast Ridge Route, climbers have rolled the proverbial dice with the Icefall; to date, no reasonable alternate route has been found. Geology of course plays a major role in this: The icefall flows between two massive features - the daunting West Shoulder of Everest to the North and the formidable steep faces of Nuptse to the South. Sadly, I doubt the Russians will find an alternate route, but it would be great if they did!

Five Russian climbers left Kathmandu, Nepal Monday with the goal of finding a less treacherous approach to Mount Everest.

"This is our second attempt to find a new approach to the classic route of scaling the highest peak of the Earth -- Everest -- from the southern direction, from Nepal," Valentin Bozhukov told Itar-Tass.

That classic route includes the Khumbu Icefall, a dangerous mass of ice permanently served by sherpas who throw crevice ladders with rope handles to get climbers across.

Russian climbers Alexander Foigt and Anatoly Shlekht proposed finding a better route in 1995, Bozhukov said.

"Regrettably, Anatoly died on Makalu in 1996 and Alexander disappeared on Peak K-2 last year. But we want to realize their idea and find this way of bypassing the dangerous icefall," Bozhukov told Itar-Tass.

© 2007 UPI

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Actual News Geezer
good stuff:

Giving this post a boost on the site - which I would have done automatically just for using the word, cwm. I mean how many words in the English language are there without a vowel?

But truly, even for non-climbers. this is interesting. The Russians are so practical...the way they build farm implements, space stations, conduct war...it is impressive.

jakedai

Thanks! Yes, Cwm...hard to believe it is actually a word! I believe it is originally Welsh, which explains its lack of vowels. Basically, it means a large, glacial valley. According to Wikipedia, it was originally Gaelic in the word coire, then to English as corrie and Welsh as Cwm. Another common Welsh term in the mountains is Col, or Pass, which at least has a vowel!

March 26, 2007 at 03:39 pm by jakedai, 659 views, 2 comments

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